The winter season in Cornwall offers an exhilarating experience.
During summer, the county draws crowds, but in the off-season, its charm truly shines with quieter roads and crashing waves on its deserted beaches.
Ahead lies the unoccupied expanse of Sennen Cove, an inviting sight—a pristine beach sheltered by a magnificent promontory at the southwestern tip of England. It’s an idyllic spot for a day by the sea. As the sun emerges, the sounds of gleeful kids riding the waves add to the atmosphere. Yet, the only visible figures are a hardy family in wetsuits, braving the near-zero temperatures and biting windchill.
We’ve opted to vacation during the first week of January, exploring Cornwall’s untamed coastline. You might question our choice. This region isn’t typically known for winter getaways; the influx of visitors and vacationers happens during the summer, filling cottages and campgrounds. However, this season grants us the tranquility we crave after the festive buzz of December.
So, armed with a stash of Christmas toys, games, and books for any downtime, along with the usual beach gear, wellies, and a love for invigorating walks along the stunning coastline, we venture forth.
For the initial days, we book a room at The Old Coastguard, a splendidly renovated Victorian hotel nestled on the Mousehole fishing village’s rocky shores. We settle into the family room atop the building—a cheery yellow space adorned with Aztec-style carpets and blue-toned furnishings. Despite the room’s vibrant décor contrasting with the stormy weather outside, we refuse to let rain dampen our plans, as we might during the summer. Instead, we embrace the hotel’s warmth, enjoy the local arcade, and let the kids take turns racing remote-controlled cars on the deserted beaches. Or, if the weather calls for it, we transform their adjoining bedroom into a dance floor with the bedside radio.
We find peaceful moments to savor the scenery from our window seats. As daylight fades into a stormy landscape, we descend to the hotel’s dining area, greeted by a crackling fire that sets the tone for the long and dark evening ahead.
The New Year’s Eve vacation extension by several guests creates a charming atmosphere without the usual bustling chaos that can accompany evening meals in busy summer destinations. We relish generous portions of fresh hake and bavette tartare before bundling up and stepping out to witness the festive harbor lights. Others join in, pausing to admire colossal sea-themed sculptures before climbing the steep paths, exploring the village.
Later, a serene drive leads us to Cove Cottage, offering a picturesque view of Sennen Cove’s soft sandy shoreline. Here, with one of the UK’s finest beaches seemingly all to ourselves, we fully embrace the crisp, cloudless days, especially when the rain lets up.
Engaging in a beach cleanup arranged by Emily Stevenson and her father, Rob, founders of Beach Guardian, becomes an educational delight for our family. Surprisingly, despite Sennen’s pristine appearance, we gather numerous multicolored treasures in our buckets.
We delight in exploring native artwork and sculptures and leisurely visiting galleries in St Just, devoid of the usual summer rush. Rather than navigating crowded St Ives shops on a hot July day, we stroll through the Tate Gallery and the Barbara Hepworth Museum. Outside the Tate, surfers bob silently, unperturbed by the drizzle.
Throughout our winter break, we discuss the importance of supporting local businesses and hospitality during the off-season, contributing to their year-round sustainability. On our final Friday evening before heading back north, we return to Mousehole, dining at the seafood restaurant 2 Fore Street. The attentive staff guide us through an exquisite menu, including shell-roasted scallops thermidor with pangrattato and crab soup with parmesan toast and rouille, paired with fine wines. By the time we finish our first course, the restaurant buzzes with patrons despite the early hour and the quiet, dark, wet streets outside. The lively weekend ambiance makes it feel like an August bank holiday.
We’ve come to appreciate wrapping ourselves in cozy hats and scarves, venturing out into the invigorating weather. Rather than feeling deprived of warmth, there’s something satisfying about embracing the elements and experiencing a different side of a coastal town during the off-season.
