Arcachon, France: A Top Destination for Beach Holidays in Europe
A lively town promenade, plates of mussels with chilled rosé, and bike rides to sandy beaches on Cap Ferret create delightful holidays on the Atlantic coast
The Bay of Arcachon, situated on the southwest coast of France, is a place of happiness. It must be, as my family and I have been visiting it nearly every year for the past 15 years. Typically, we rent a small apartment in Arcachon town for four or five days, but its allure is such that we have occasionally driven two hours just to spend the day there when we’ve been in the area. Everything about it exudes summer bliss: the bustling promenade filled with cyclists and pedestrians; the array of bistros serving mussels, oysters, and buckets of chilled rosé; families enjoying beach tennis on the sands; and a bay teeming with pleasure boats and ferries. It’s like stepping into a scene from a Raoul Dufy painting.
The first day starts at Halle Baltard, the town market, where we enjoy coffee with brioche and croissants. Then, we head to the bike rental shop, always the same one (Dingo Vélos), because in this mostly flat landscape, a car is unnecessary. Afterward, we purchase ferry tickets at the small beach cabins on Thiers jetty to cross the bay to Cap Ferret. The wait in the queue on the jetty is reminiscent of Monsieur Hulot’s Holiday, with the air filled with sunscreen and anticipation. Children wear inflatables around their waists and carry crab nets on their shoulders, while parents don sunglasses and straw hats, lugging overloaded picnic bags and rugs. There’s a lively chatter as the ferry crew loads bikes on the roof and passengers scramble for outdoor seats.
The 30-minute journey across the bay offers cinematic views of the retreating Arcachon coastline, featuring elegant villas, a casino, the towering Dune du Pilat, and rows of oyster beds as we approach the pier at Cap Ferret. Upon arrival, the bikes prove their worth.
If you turn right out of the pier, you can explore this pine-covered headland all the way to Lège Cap Ferret, using cycle lanes to avoid the summer crowds, and stopping at the fishing villages of L’Herbe and Le Canon for drinks or lunch.
It’s a scene of summer joy: the promenade bustling with cyclists and pedestrians, reminiscent of a painting by Raoul Dufy
However, we always turn left and head to Cap Ferret market because it provides a glimpse into the French holiday experience. Cap Ferret is more subtle in comparison to the glamorous Cap Ferrat on the Côte d’Azur. The sandy roads are filled with retro Citröen Mehari beach convertibles. Second-home owners from Bordeaux and its surrounding areas wear chinos and pastel polo shirts, or long, striped shirt dresses and pumps, all of which are available at the market stalls. However, simply enjoying a coffee and canelé pastry while observing the lively scene is enough.
In the 1950s, affluent individuals from Bordeaux were drawn to the rugged, unmanicured charm of Cap Ferret—the untamed Atlantic Ocean, the extensive unspoiled beaches and dunes, and the fishermen selling the finest oysters and prawns directly from their cabins. These oyster farmers have since converted their cabins into simple food shacks with decks overlooking the bay. At our favorite spot, Chez Boulan, the menu is limited to their specialties: oysters, prawns, whelks, winkles, paté, and bread, served with ice-cold white Bordeaux or rosé. The Bay of Arcachon is truly a joyful place.
