Autumn Sun in Bordighera, Italy

Lured by lavish estates, splendid cuisine, verdant gardens, and serene shores, British expats were drawn to Bordighera in the 1880s. This allure remains just as strong today.

While my wife and daughter sought shade under a parasol on Bordighera’s beach, my teenage son and I embarked on a quest to find Western Europe’s largest Ficus macrophylla, a famous strangler fig planted in 1886 by Clarence Bicknell. Bicknell, a British botanist, collector, and Bordighera’s Anglican church chaplain, was enchanted by the hilly coastline from Sanremo to the French Riviera. However, he grew disenchanted with his British congregation, resigning to focus on painting, archaeology, and prehistoric rock carvings.

The Museo Bicknell now hosts his legacy, featuring butterflies, sketchbooks, pressed flowers, and more. This period, when the British population in Bordighera exceeded 3,000, is vividly depicted. The museum’s facade is adorned with wisteria enveloping the structure, with colossal ficus trees in the garden beyond, surrounded by pine trees, oleanders, lemon trees, and aloe plants bursting through the fences.

Every path in Bordighera leads to serene squares with whitewashed walls and shaded restaurant tables. Via Romana guides us to the historic medieval town, known as città alta, a maze of narrow streets decorated with plants and bicycles.

Osteria Magiargè and La Cicala serve delightful ravioli options, while the seafront promenade showcases ice cream parlors and restaurants on stilts over the beach. Bordighera is also known for its pastries, attracting us to U Pesigu for chocolate and pear tart and a gelateria for an ice cream shaped like a hedgehog.

As we reach the beach, it retains a summery vibe with scattered parasols and loungers, yet it’s surprisingly quiet. Nearby, Tiziana and Tommaso tell of their cycling journey along the Riviera dei Fiori, praising Bordighera for its extended promenade and tranquil beach. They plan to explore the town further, including the clothing market, and continue their adventure to Menton, favored by Queen Victoria.