Paris celebrates centuries of distinctive crafts.

Entering Paris’s Brûlerie de Belleville in the 19th arrondissement resembles stepping into an old-fashioned apothecary. The atmosphere is set by towering dark wooden shelves stocked with glass jars and tins brimming with freshly roasted coffee beans. The walls are adorned with an assortment of coffee-making equipment, while the bar counters gleam with wine-colored marble, inviting you to savor a freshly brewed espresso.

This establishment, a longstanding purveyor of quality coffee in Paris, actively participates in ParisLocal, a three-day festival held in November. The festival celebrates local, eco-conscious businesses and skilled artisans, offering a vibrant platform for showcasing their craft.

As I kick off my day exploring the city’s workshops, I engage with the talented artisans while enjoying a much-needed caffeine boost. Ludovic Gossart, a lively barista with a neatly groomed Wes Anderson-style mustache and an outfit comprising green postman shorts and a matching cap, inquires about my typical coffee preferences (supermarket Lavazza), brewing method (Italian moka pot), and coffee taste profile (to which I’m unsure). His approach mirrors a diagnostic consultation from a doctor.

He meticulously weighs and grinds the coffee beans before placing the grounds into a ceramic Japanese filter. With delicate precision, he pours hot water over the grounds in a circular motion. The resulting brew, served in transparent glasses, boasts a rich, dark caramel hue, reminiscent of translucent tea.

Throughout this process, Ludovic passionately shares a condensed history of coffee, encompassing the global market, worldwide production, and consumption trends. His enthusiasm reflects his deep love for coffee. Despite the energetic delivery, there’s something contagious about his dedication to coffee. With one sip, relishing its velvety, pure, and almost fruity undertones, I find myself converted.

“Once you delve into the world of coffee, ordinary won’t satisfy you anymore!” he exclaims cheerfully, noticing my surprised expression. In the adjoining conservatory, coffee beans undergo roasting, filling the shop with an earthy aroma reminiscent of a bonfire, toasting bread, and caramelizing fruit.

Although tempted to explore more coffee varieties, it’s time to proceed to my next destination: a visit to the workshop of neon artist Alexis Dandréis.

Neon art typically conjures visions of Las Vegas’ dazzling lights or Tokyo’s neon glow, yet it holds a distinct Parisian heritage. French engineer Georges Claude introduced commercial neon in the early 20th century. Interestingly, only a few néonistes continue the traditional method, contrary to the prevalent use of LED lighting.

“It’s a fading profession,” Dandréis shares. “Neon embodies true craftsmanship unlike easily disposable mass-produced LEDs.” He ignites a colossal blowtorch, causing the air to quiver until the flame transforms into a vibrant blue roar. He then immerses a glass tube into the liquid heat, rotating it until it reaches the ideal temperature. With a graceful movement, he bends it into a flawless U shape. Upon returning it to his desk, the wooden surface bears a slight singe, a delicate wisp of smoke rising like a musical note.

“What I practice blends creativity and substantial technical expertise,” he explains, emphasizing the intricate designs he crafts for artists and interior design clients. Visitors to the November festival can witness live glass-molding demonstrations throughout the day and even participate in introductory workshops to experience the art form themselves.

From November 17th to 19th, about 600 artisans across the greater Paris area welcome curious individuals keen on exploring the enduring practice of various crafts. One such artisan is Johanna Braitbart, dedicated to fashion accessory craftsmanship in Paris for 25 years. In her cozy studio situated in the Marais district, her table, by the window, hosts a bustling scene of pins, fabric swatches, threads, beads, scissors, and measuring tapes.

Throughout her career, she’s witnessed the migration of small artisans from central Paris due to rising rents and the transformation of traditional business districts through gentrification. Many couturiers have either been acquired by prominent fashion labels or displaced by them. For Braitbart, ParisLocal offers a cherished opportunity to redirect focus toward small-scale artisans.