Discover Austria’s mountain radon spa

The Austrian Alps boast breathtaking hiking trails, along with luxurious spa-hotels that offer hikers a soothing retreat, complete with eucalyptus-scented saunas and steam rooms. Among these retreats, the most intricate experience was the radon cave I explored in Bad Gastein, even in the nude.

Emerging during the last years of the Austro-Hungarian empire, a picturesque spa town emerged perched atop a rocky cliff near a stunning waterfall. Throughout the late 19th and early 20th centuries, belle époque hotels capitalized on the healing properties of the radon-rich thermal waters, catering to affluent visitors.

As the tradition of ‘taking the waters’ diminished, many of these treasures were shut down, despite Bad Gastein thriving as a vibrant ski destination during the winter. Instead of following the pattern of various other ski resorts, particularly in Switzerland, which allowed new constructions to sprawl across the mountainside, Bad Gastein took a different approach during its redevelopment after the lockdown. The town made sure that all ‘new’ hotels were established within existing structures. Even the Comodo, which boasts itself as a contemporary design hotel, was once a sanatorium. The Grand Hotel Straubinger, exuding the grandeur of the Habsburg era with its sturdy, rounded arches, opened its doors on September 1. Three more hotels swiftly joined this revival.

Bad Gastein benefits from convenient rail connections from Salzburg and Vienna, offering direct train services. However, the station sits about 100 meters above most of the town’s infrastructure. To tackle this issue, the resort is constructing the ‘Vertical Link,’ a tunnel equipped with moving walkways that will offer pedestrians an alternative to scaling the ascent of steep, narrow streets.

At the end of another tunnel lies an extraordinary ‘wellness’ center known as the Gasteiner Heilstollen. Here, visitors are exposed to the radon-rich environment of its caves, believed to alleviate minor discomforts and aches. While this might initially raise concerns, it’s worth noting that various regions in the UK, particularly Wales and the West Country, also have naturally occurring radon. The management assures that a visit to the Gasteiner Heilstollen is safe, involving very low radon exposure—roughly one-tenth of the radiation from an X-ray. Although the health benefits are claimed, strong scientific evidence is lacking, yet many Austrian visitors make trips here covered by their health insurance. This wellness-oriented nation takes its spa experiences seriously.

Following this, the train arrived without a bikini-clad driver at the helm. We entered one of its carriages, where a few individuals on stretchers were transferred to accommodations akin to sleeper cars. Our journey into the depths of the Earth began.

The waiting room had offered a comfortable, even cool, atmosphere. However, as the train delved deeper into the mountain, we gradually sensed warmth and then distinct heat. Without hesitation, we and fellow guests shed our clothing down to our swimsuits within the carriage.

About 1½ miles inside the mountain, we arrived at a network of tunnels branching off from the train tracks, furnished with beds on either side. Here, we reclined on our towels, removed our swimsuits, and absorbed the radiation. It was a rather pleasant experience, quite different from sunbathing. Periodically, a doctor, clad in a towel around his waist, visited to ensure the radiation dose remained safe. I believe I might have dozed off, as the 60 minutes seemed to pass quickly.

Afterward, we reboarded the train and enjoyed a 25-minute massage and a beverage in the relaxation rooms, all included in the introductory offer costing €84.