Faro Portugal’s Equivalent of Palm Springs

Amid the morning sunlight’s intense radiance, the streets of downtown Faro compose a diverse mosaic of textures. Aged art deco storefronts intermingle with weathered neighbors adorned with corroded balustrades and meticulously crafted ceramic tiles. Turning a corner reveals a bank, appearing like an ice-cream sandwich drenched in pistachio-tinted sunlight. In this area, structures lean toward a more nouveau style rather than classical art. These layers of recent history have truly fascinated me.

However, in this often-unnoticed city teeming with dusty curiosities, it’s the modernist architecture that seizes attention. Recognizable by its sleek lines, flat rooftops, and sharp edges, Faro boasts an impressive collection of over 500 mid-century structures, the densest cluster in southern Europe. Surprisingly, it’s only recently that these architectural gems have garnered recognition. From towering skyscrapers reminiscent of Rio’s design with scalloped geometric facades to contemporary villas, these buildings share an enthralling fusion of structural clarity and daring design that captivates modern enthusiasts.

In the early 1950s, a collective of Portuguese architects, led by Manuel Gomes da Costa from the Algarve, returned to Portugal after achieving success in South America. Their aim was to challenge prevailing political ideologies and discard outdated architectural concepts. Inspired by influential figures such as Le Corbusier, Frank Lloyd Wright, and Oscar Niemeyer, their goal was to revitalize the region. Their interpretation of modernism, coined the “South Modern” style, became instrumental in reshaping Faro’s once-lackluster identity.

However, in this often underestimated city replete with historical oddities, it’s the modernist architecture that takes center stage. Characterized by its sleek lines, flat rooftops, and sharp angles, Faro boasts a collection of over 500 mid-century structures, the most concentrated in southern Europe. Surprisingly, it’s only recently that these architectural wonders have garnered attention. Ranging from imposing high-rises echoing Rio’s architectural flair with scalloped geometric facades to modernist villas, these buildings exhibit an intriguing fusion of structural clarity and bold design that captivates enthusiasts of contemporary architecture.

In the early 1950s, a cadre of Portuguese architects, spearheaded by Manuel Gomes da Costa from the Algarve, returned to their native land after amassing wealth in South America. Their resolve was to challenge prevailing political norms and discard outdated architectural ideologies. Influenced by architectural stalwarts like Le Corbusier, Frank Lloyd Wright, and Oscar Niemeyer, their ambition was to revitalize the region. Their interpretation of modernism, known as the “South Modern” style, played a pivotal role in remedying Faro’s previous lack of a distinctive identity.

Drawing a simple comparison, one might liken it to the “Palm Springs of Portugal,” although the local architecture possesses an unmistakable uniqueness. Gomes da Costa is renowned for a style often characterized as tropical futurism, cleverly juxtaposing nature against the elements. His designs, inspired by Brazil, incorporated cobogós—perforated concrete slabs—engineered to both cool facades and create intricate shadow patterns with filtered sunlight. Nearly everything he conceived celebrated the sun in some form, which ironically now entices people away from the beaches and onto the city’s streets.

Situated on Rua Dom Francisco Gomes, The Modernist hotel (starting at €150 per night for a minimum two-night stay) resides within a converted former maritime office, now housing guest apartments. This choice appeals to those comfortable with the “archi-tourist” tag. Once dubbed “the ugliest building in Faro,” it now resembles a symmetrical chest of drawers hovering above a lottery kiosk, serving as an architectural tribute to a past era. The rooms here intentionally embrace simplicity, devoid of TVs and wall art, featuring local green marble, red vinyl floors, and beds designed to evoke a sense of homely comfort. The Modernist embodies a no-frills form of luxury, with a strong focus on clean lines.

Christophe and Angelique, the proprietors, are Parisians who arrived in Faro four years ago and found themselves enchanted. “Faro is a design and architectural miracle,” notes Christophe. “It was an instant connection. It felt like Havana – overlooked but with incredible heritage. While the comparison might be ambitious, there’s an undeniable similar vibe. It might not be the most scenic city in the Algarve, lacking some polish, but there’s a wealth to discover here, and in our opinion, much worth preserving.”