November 7, 2024

Final summer getaway: Coastal escapes in France, Spain, Italy

As kids head back to school, the crowds thin out, prices decrease, and plenty of sunshine lingers for late-season trips in Southern Europe.

Cassis, Provence, France

Nicely basking in 300 days of sunshine annually, Nice has long been a top draw for northern Europeans yearning for a prolonged summer. Yet, on the western fringes of the Cote d’Azur, Marseille and its adjoining beaches offer an equally inviting climate minus the hefty price tags.

While strolling through Marseille’s captivating old town, the Vieux-Port, and exploring the city’s world-renowned museums could easily fill a few days, the allure of the beach isn’t far away. Cassis, an enchanting fishing village adorned with pastel-hued houses and pebbled shores, lies just a 45-minute drive or a 20-minute train ride from the city. It serves as an excellent base for delving into the Calanques, a series of narrow coastal inlets cradled by towering limestone cliffs. Set off on a boat excursion from the marina, paddle a kayak to uncover hidden coves, or embark on the Calanques de Cassis hike from the village, which trails through the Calanque de Port-Miou, Calanque de Port Pin, and Calanque d’en Vau in a single day.

Nestled within the heart of Calanques National Park, the environmentally conscious Hôtel les Volets Rouges offers 20 modern, well-lit rooms. Despite being just a 10-minute drive from Cassis town center, it’s an ideal launching pad for accessing hiking trails leading to the Calanques. Double rooms start at £113 per night in September/October.

Travel Information: TGV trains provide a swift three-and-a-half-hour link between Marseille and Paris. Once in Marseille, a 20-minute train ride will transport you to Cassis.

Šibenik, Dalmatia, Croatia

The Adriatic coast revels in an extended summer, boasting warm waters that endure well into October, and sometimes even November. For those seeking a harmonious blend of beachfront leisure, cultural indulgence, and access to breathtaking natural beauty, Šibenik is the perfect spot for one last summer hurrah.

Surprisingly, Šibenik often escapes the attention of many tourists, despite its remarkable attributes. This charming Dalmatian city, perched halfway between Zadar and Split, offers an array of delights and doesn’t go into complete hibernation during the winter, unlike many other Croatian coastal spots.

Visitors will uncover the awe-inspiring UNESCO-listed Cathedral of St. James, a scenic pebble beach with city vistas, and an enchanting Venetian old town characterized by winding marble lanes and snug eateries tucked in cozy squares. Amble along the Riva waterfront, savoring the refreshing sea breeze while lounging at café terraces and observing boats (note that cruise ships can’t navigate the narrow channel leading to the city).

For a panoramic viewpoint, ascend the hill to explore the three carefully restored 16th-century Venetian fortresses – St. John, St. Michael, and Barone. Alternatively, take on a three-mile hike along St. Anthony’s Channel to reach the UNESCO-listed remains of St. Nicholas fortress.

The Armerun Heritage Hotel & Residence offers 21 chic rooms and apartments within a former Dominican monastery situated along the waterfront. Double rooms start at €177 with breakfast included in September and €112 in October.

Travel Details: Overland journeys from the UK require a minimum of 26 hours, involving taking the Eurostar to Brussels, followed by train connections to Munich, and then Flixbuses to Šibenik.

Arcachon, Atlantic coast, France

Connoisseurs of oysters know that autumn heralds the prime season to relish this delicacy. Coincidentally, it’s also one of the most favorable periods to visit Arcachon, a significant center for oyster cultivation along France’s Atlantic coast.

The Bassin d’Arcachon, a vast sheltered bay, often retains pleasant temperatures well into October. During the peak of summer, the charming fishing villages scattered along the bay, with their cabanes à huîtres (oyster huts) where you can savor the freshest seafood with your toes in the sand, are a treat. However, in autumn, the town of Arcachon emerges as an ideal choice, boasting year-round vibrancy.

In addition to its sandy beaches, delicious seafood, and stunning Belle Epoque architecture, Arcachon serves as an excellent starting point for biking adventures into the Landes forest or along the bay, offering glimpses of the 110m-high Dune du Pilat. In July and August, Europe’s tallest sand dune teems with tourists, but in September and October, you can revel in the breathtaking vistas and sunsets sans the crowds.

Accommodation Options: The Hotel de la Plage offers charming rooms adorned with pine wood décor and enjoys close proximity to both the train station and the beach. Double rooms are available from £130 per night in September and £94 per night in October.

Travel Directions: TGV trains provide a rapid connection from Paris to Bordeaux in just over two hours. From Bordeaux, it’s a 50-minute train journey to reach Arcachon.

Sestri Levante, Liguria, Italy

Genoa’s eastern Riviera is sprinkled with delightful small towns, once thriving fishing ports adorned with intricate trompe l’oeil paintings on their historic houses. While the ultra-wealthy flock to Portofino, undeniably picturesque, there are numerous equally captivating spots along this coastline. Sestri Levante, situated to the southeast, is a favorite among Italians during the summer season, boasting two sandy beaches separated by a picturesque headland. The smaller one, Baia del Silenzio, forms a perfect crescent of sandy shoreline framed by colorful houses, although it can get quite crowded in August. Autumn provides an excellent opportunity to appreciate its beauty at its finest.

Though beach-friendly weather stretches into October, some days might be cool enough to relish a panoramic stroll from the old town enveloping the Punta Manara peninsula. The cherished Cinque Terre towns are just a half-hour away by train. A short walk inland leads to Ca’ di Ferae, an establishment offering innovative cuisine crafted from traditional ingredients in an authentic, off-the-beaten-path setting, and some of the finest vegetarian dishes in the region.

Accommodation Choices: La Casa dei Paggi, within walking distance of the beaches, the old town, and the train station, is a charming B&B hosted by Angelo and Giovanna in a 19th-century house enveloped by gardens. It features only two guest rooms, a balcony with sea views adorned with vibrant bougainvillea, and homemade breakfasts served on the porch. Double rooms start at €110.

Travel Plans: The journey from London to Genoa by train takes approximately 12½ hours, involving transfers in Paris and either Milan or Turin. From Genoa, there’s a 36-minute train ride to reach Sestri Levante.

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