Spotlight on Slovenia’s ‘Eden’ Rail

Our slow travel expert explores Slovenia’s Soča Valley and Julian Alps, discovering hidden treasures in a country where train prices have recently dropped.

James Bond paused in Sežana. In Ian Fleming’s ‘From Russia with Love,’ Sežana was noted as the spot where ‘hard-faced Yugoslav plain-clothes men came on board.’ The renowned Simplon-Orient-Express, featured in James Bond stories, ceased operations in 1962. Encounters between former Yugoslavia and Italy at Slovenia’s border ceased when Slovenia joined the Schengen zone in 2007. Today, Sežana’s railway station is a tranquil place. The most intriguing departure is the early-afternoon Eurocity train that heads east toward Ljubljana, eventually reaching Vienna by evening. Despite this splendid journey, a lesser-known rural railway nearby holds exceptional charm, deserving wider acclaim. The good news is that Slovenia reduced train fares in August.

Exploring Habsburg Vision

We embark on an 80-mile railway journey, commencing from Sežana and winding through breathtaking landscapes to Jesenice in Slovenia’s northwest. After the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869, Trieste, a key Adriatic port, gained immense importance in expanding the Austro-Hungarian Empire’s maritime trade. However, existing rail connections to central Europe were strained. Consequently, Habsburg planners began developing new routes from Trieste. Crossing the Julian Alps faced skepticism, with debates over preferred paths. Not until 1906 did trains run along this line, linking the coast to Jesenice.

Through the Soča Valley

Observing the prompt departures of modern electric trains to Villa Opicina and Ljubljana, I approach another platform where a graffiti-covered diesel unit waits. This platform hosts infrequent service to Jesenice, part of my four-day journey from Rijeka, Croatia, to Ribe, Denmark. Relying solely on slower trains, avoiding advance reservations, I join the 10:10 Sežana to Jesenice route catering mainly to local communities and short-distance travelers.

“The Soča River sets a dramatic scene for a remarkable journey through the Soča valley, where the longest stone-arch railway bridge spans its waters.”

As we ascend the steep slopes toward the narrow Bača Valley, halting briefly at Podbrdo, we enter the four-mile Bohinj Tunnel, the apex of this rail line. This tunnel signifies a significant geographical division within Europe. Prior to it, our path followed valleys draining south to the Adriatic. Emerging from the tunnel’s northern end, we find ourselves in the Sava River’s source region, flowing to the Danube in Belgrade and finally reaching the Black Sea. The landscape undergoes a dramatic shift to a distinct Alpine ambiance, marked by the Julian Alps’ domain, with the towering Triglav at 2,864 meters as Slovenia’s highest peak.

Lake Bled and Beyond

The railway is crucial in connecting remote communities, operating special trains year-round through the Bohinj Tunnel. This service facilitates vehicle transportation in areas challenging for roads during summers and snow-blocked in winters.

Departing from Bohinjska Bistrica, the northern end of the tunnel, a delightful 20-minute journey leads down the valley. Slovenia’s renowned Lake Bled suddenly emerges, offering an enchanting view from the train.

A charming approach to Lake Bled unfolds as we disembark and stroll through the forest, reaching the lakeshore.

Continuing for another 15 minutes brings us to Jesenice, where this secondary line meets the main route from Ljubljana to Villach, Austria. Once a bustling industrial center, Jesenice now seems tranquil, standing at the frontier near Austria. Its neglected railway station, once a modernist architectural marvel, served as Yugoslavia’s entry point for international express trains from Austria. Countless lives were shaped by the Cold War’s European divide, passing through this station.

Travel Details

The Sežana to Jesenice journey is most convenient on weekdays, offering four Sežana-bound trains. The 10:10 departure permits stopovers in the Soča Valley and Lake Bled, arriving in Jesenice by early evening. The travel time typically ranges from three to five hours without layovers.

The author traveled using a four-day Interrail pass priced at €258 for adults, with discounts available for certain age groups. Notably, Slovenia reduced train fares on August 11th. A Sežana to Jesenice one-way ticket costs €10.70, and a round trip in a day costs €14. Tickets are purchasable on travel days at station counters or onboard. Due to recent flooding in Slovenia, buses may temporarily substitute trains north of Bohinjska Bistrica until October 13th.