The paired cultural hubs of Italy: Bergamo and Brescia.
In these competitive urban centers, conflicts in football and the pandemic’s devastation give way to scenic strolls, mountaintop feasts, and rich cultural experiences, making them exceptional destinations for an active Lombardy vacation.
Amidst Bergamo’s medieval upper city of Città Alta, specifically in Piazza Vecchia, a young man, adorned with a vivid flower crown, celebrates his graduation joyously alongside family members. As sparkling wine bottles are uncorked, they toast with royal blue cups, painting a picturesque scene near Fontana Contarini. The area’s 16th-century Venetian walls and lively restaurants tucked beneath grand stone archways draw visitors from all angles.
Guided by Elisabetta Campanini, we explore the city via a tuk-tuk, passing landmarks like the Campanone, the clock tower that tolls 100 times at 10 pm, reminiscent of the city’s history during Venetian rule when gates closed. The tower’s top, accessible by foot or elevator, treats visitors to a panoramic view of the city and an aerial glimpse of the stunning basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore below.
Inside the basilica, constructed almost a millennium ago to honor the Virgin Mary for protecting Europe from a plague, opulence greets us. Intricately woven tapestries in deep greens and golds from workshops in Florence and Flanders decorate the walls. Everywhere, the intricate frescoes and stuccos by Italian Renaissance painter Lorenzo Lotto adorn the interior.
Yet, it’s the medieval paintings next to the basilica’s entrances that captivate the most, some restored after being concealed under layers of paint for centuries. Though their colors may appear subdued compared to newer works, their allure remains undiminished.
Elisabetta shares insights during our leisurely exploration, highlighting how Bergamo and neighboring Brescia have long lived under Milan’s shadow. In mere hours, we witness the vibrancy of Bergamo’s daily life and later immerse ourselves in Brescia’s artsy ambiance, boasting Roman relics, notably the Santa Giulia Museum.
Both cities enchant with their architecture, cuisine, and natural surroundings. This year, they set aside a 900-year-old rivalry, uniting as Italy’s first joint capitals of culture, overcoming even the fierce football feud between Brescia Calcio and Bergamo’s Atalanta BC.
The pandemic severely affected both cities, being at the forefront of Europe’s first wave, haunting residents with the constant wail of ambulance sirens and the loss of numerous lives. Yet, a collective resolve to recover and break free from the pandemic’s grasp prevails. Tourism is seen as a way to rejuvenate, symbolized by “La Via Delle Sorelle” (The Way of the Sisters), an 80-mile hiking trail linking the cities.
Guided by Matteo Zanga, a seasoned mountain leader, we embark on a 12-mile hike along this trail, starting from the provincial village of Olera. Wild garlic scents the hillsides, while white wood anemones form a beautiful floral carpet.
The trail winds through farms and enchanting woodlands, offering glimpses into local life. Along the way, we pause at Ristorante Pighet and stumble upon an alpine festival, savoring local delights.
This path in Lombardy’s northeast showcases contemporary art in six stages, featuring accommodations and dining options. It descends towards Lake Iseo, connecting with the Strada del Vino, a route through renowned wine regions like Franciacorta and Valcalepio, ideal for wine tastings.
Returning to Citta Alta, lunch at Baretto in San Vigilio solidifies my perception of the city. Amidst the bustling crowd, indulging in the bergamasco appetizer of polenta, butter, and anchovies, and relishing mango sorbet and tiramisù del Baretto, I round off the meal with a cappuccino, much to Matteo’s amusement, breaking the Italian tradition of enjoying milky coffee only in the morning.
