November 7, 2024

I departed the vibrant heart of Berlin, and it surpassed my expectations.

Amid concerns of overtourism, a fresh initiative highlights the often-overlooked outer city areas, showcasing their vibrant culture, historical richness, and lush landscapes.

“Berlin’s got a cable car?” questions the burger grill master at Piri’s, a dive bar diner in Neukölln, an inner-city district southeast of Berlin. He seems skeptical, while his colleague from New Zealand confirms the existence of this unusual attraction. Both have lived here for over a decade and humorously refer to Neukölln as “the ghetto,” seemingly unaware of nearby historic sites like the 18th-century Schloss Britz castle and the expansive 220-acre Britzer Garten. There’s even a cable car in the northeastern Marzahn district, just a 45-minute train ride away.

A recent initiative called “Ab ins B!” (Let’s Go to the B!) led by Jana Friedrich, the head of Spandau’s tourism board, aims to change this lack of awareness. While Berlin’s central A-zone buzzes with iconic landmarks like the Brandenburg Gate and the Reichstag, the city boasts twelve districts, with nine beyond the A-zone. The ‘B-zone’ offers neighborhoods like Treptow-Köpenick, Tempelhof-Schöneberg, Steglitz-Zehlendorf, and Marzahn-Hellersdorf, waiting to be explored.

“The concept behind ‘Ab ins B!’ aims to highlight attractions beyond the city center,” Friedrich explains. “Initially local, its success prompted us to raise awareness among international tourists. The ‘Ab ins B!’ section on the Visit Berlin website provides comprehensive insights into these lesser-known areas.”

For exploring Berlin’s outskirts, a metro map featuring the S and U-Bahn lines is a vital tool. With a Berlin Welcome Card offering travel in zones A and B, along with discounts and attraction suggestions, planning becomes easier. The B-zone unfolds with lushness and meticulous beauty, a contrast to the city’s divided past that defines its dynamic cultural identity.

History buffs will find rich exploration in the B-zone. A trip to Wannsee, a 40-minute journey from Alexanderplatz, leads to the Haus der Wannsee-Konferenz. Here, SS and Nazi party members met in 1942 to discuss the tragic “final solution” for the Jewish community. The Bayerischer Platz in Schöneberg, a short train ride from Hermannplatz, presents 80 placards in German detailing legislation that isolated the Jewish community pre-Holocaust. Treptow-Köpenick offers the Nazi Forced Labour Documentation Centre, housed in a former camp, with poignant exhibits of “workers” and fragments of their stories.

Beyond central Berlin’s Museum Island, a treasure trove of culture awaits. The Liebermann Villa, once Max Liebermann’s summer residence, exhibits his works inspired by splendid gardens. In western Spandau, the Georg Kolbe Museum showcases the sculptor’s masterpieces. Lichtenberg unveils the captivating Dark Matter, a collection of light and sound installations within a former factory.

Embarking daily from the Spree-side hotel Abion in Bellevue, I discovered the B-zone’s captivating allure and abundant green spaces. After a somber visit to the Forced Labour Documentation Centre, I wandered to Wuhlheide Park, offering a miniature Berlin at Modellpark and sprawling trails through 500 acres of green landscapes. Treptow-Köpenick, the greenest district, hosts riverside bars like Mutter Lustig, where I savored a cocktail as kayakers paddled by.

In the far reaches of Spandau, Fort Hahneberg, Prussia’s artillery stronghold, nestles discreetly within the hills. Its serene interior, with doorways to gunpowder rooms and young raccoons’ occasional sounds, contrasts the lush vegetation that now conceals its exterior arches. This hidden gem even featured in Quentin Tarantino’s “Inglourious Basterds.”

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