Riding Turkey’s midnight express train.

In the last leg of our extensive rail exploration series, we set off on the Doğu Express, a train voyage from Ankara, the capital of Turkey, heading east towards Kars and the Georgian border.

At Ankara’s historic Tarihi Karacabey Hamami, Karim, a masseur, jokingly says, “You can pay whatever you think is fair.” As we stand draped in small towels, the casual ambiance prevails, interrupted only by the occasional scent of tobacco on patrons’ breaths.

Seeking a relaxing skin scrub and massage before Turkey’s longest train ride, I embrace the steamy, communal hammam space, where my muscles get much-needed relief ahead of a full day and night on a slow train.

The Doğu Express, meaning “east” in Turkish, covers 800 miles, linking Ankara to Kars and providing a gateway into Georgia. Initially lesser-known, this route gained popularity in the mid-2010s after travel vloggers showcased its scenic beauty, turning this journey into a highly sought-after adventure.

To meet the escalating demand, Turkish State Railways introduced the Touristic Doğu Express in 2019. This service operates from December to March, with extended stops at attractions like Karanlık Canyon and Erzincan, transforming Turkey into a hotspot for rail travel.

While opting for the standard train, the platform buzzes with enthusiasm as passengers proudly display “Doğu Ekspresi” signs. I join Sena and Selcan in their cabin, where fairy lights add coziness to the journey.

The train ride offers enchanting moonlit views of snow-covered fields and stray dogs amid the trees. Improvising a platform with our bunk ladder, my companion and I stream Netflix, ensuring a comfortable night in our private cabin.

Morning brings a delightful dining car experience with kumru sandwiches and conversations with fellow travelers. Germans on a Doğu Express tour share stories, enhancing the camaraderie of this unique journey.

Arriving in Tbilisi, Georgia, I relish historical churches and the eclectic atmosphere at Dry Bridge market. Nightfall finds me amid a pro-Ukraine demonstration, feeling the solidarity between countries sharing historical struggles.

A swift train journey takes me to Batumi, where the Black Sea coast, though filled with hotels, fails to captivate. Opting to return to Turkey, I savor scenic bus vistas and rejoin the Doğu Express for the ride back to Ankara, this time enjoying a quieter journey with snowy mountain views.

The subdued ride marks the end of an exhilarating adventure, bringing back memories of the vibrant journey to the east. Finally, the train pulls into Ankara, where the buzz of travelers and their banners has been replaced by a quieter, reflective atmosphere.