Riding Turkey’s midnight express train.
In the last leg of our extensive rail exploration series, we set off on the Doğu Express, a train voyage from Ankara, the capital of Turkey, heading east towards Kars and the Georgian border. At Ankara’s historic Tarihi Karacabey Hamami, Karim, a masseur, jokingly says, “You can pay whatever you think is fair.” As we … Read more