Tommy Hilfiger praises luxury resurgence.

After a two-year hiatus, the designer returns with a fresh interpretation of preppy style, moving away from streetwear.

“Luxury is on everyone’s mind. Its definition is widely known, and the desire for it is universal. However, for most, luxury remains out of reach. Offering an affordable version positions our business well.”

After a two-year break, Tommy Hilfiger is back at New York Fashion Week, embracing the trend of “quiet luxury” and sensing a resurgence in the inclination to “dress up.” Moving beyond streetwear, he notes, “It’s in the air – I can feel it.”

Titled as a “New York moment,” the show marked a milestone for a brand deeply connected to popular culture and youth, with strong ties to hip-hop and sports. Invitations mimicking a New Yorker magazine cover in font and layout invited guests to a historic Friday night catwalk show at the Oyster Bar in Grand Central Station, a 110-year-old Manhattan institution.

The presence of trays filled with martinis and old fashioneds created a lively cocktail party ambiance. The morning after the show, at his office, Hilfiger reminisced about his pre-show nervousness, pondering, “Will they ever sit down? How will we kick off this show?”

Ralph Lauren abstains this season, Calvin Klein went off the catwalk radar five years ago, and Marc Jacobs opts for shows outside the fashion week schedule. This opens an avenue for Hilfiger to secure a prominent position in American fashion, returning to the city where he launched his brand in 1985. He seized the opportunity with unbridled enthusiasm, concluding the show with a triumphant victory lap adorned in a varsity jacket and pristine white trainers.

Hilfiger excels in encapsulating the American dream in a memorable image. While many New York designers create stylish garments, only Tommy Hilfiger orchestrates the kind of event where the first thing one sees upon entry is Sylvester Stallone, enjoying french fries served in a canapé-sized silver cone with ketchup.

Hilfiger doesn’t claim avant-garde status but keenly senses early winds of change, adjusting his brand of Americana accordingly. He notes the importance of timing in the fashion industry, avoiding being too early or too late with a look. Price is also crucial, particularly with rising costs in high-end luxury labels. Illustrating, he compares a coat from his showroom to Loro Piana, a renowned Italian brand, pointing out that their camel cashmere coat is priced at $6,000, while his is $600.

The foundation of the collection comprised timeless American preppy elements: robust chinos, luxurious cable-knit sweaters, felted wool blazers, striped rib scarves, pleated skirts, and button-down shirts. These pieces showcased Ivy League school colors, including burgundy, navy, camel, and ivory.

To modernize, oversized proportions were introduced. Ample coats were paired with wide trousers that pooled at the ankle, shirts featured elongated cuffs and exaggerated pointy collars. Seventeen out of the 59 models sported baseball caps, the current must-have accessory.

“Everyone desires them in their wardrobe now. It’s completely acceptable to wear a baseball cap with a dress, even in the evening or at a restaurant. We even offer them in cashmere,” remarked Hilfiger.

With the exception of one cable-knit sweater displaying the iconic red, white, and blue Tommy flag, the longstanding streetwear codes that characterized the brand were conspicuously absent. Reflecting on his roots, the designer explained, “This is where I began, rebelling against traditional preppy by infusing it with an oversized, relaxed, and cool aesthetic. Now, we are revisiting that approach in a new way.”

In a shift back toward traditional practices, Hilfiger is abandoning the “see now, buy now” concept, where clothes become available for sale as they debut on the catwalk. Instead, he is embracing what he referred to as “the traditional way of doing things,” meaning this collection will be available for purchase in the autumn.

The “see now, buy now” approach is now reserved for the celebrity front row, who are outfitted by the brand in current-season attire. “Modern celebrities lead lives akin to ongoing advertising campaigns. They are constantly photographed, both by themselves and others, and boast large fan bases. When their favorite celebrity recommends a peacoat by Tommy Hilfiger, fans flock to it like bees to honey.”